Inactive Ingredients: Glyceryl Monostearate, Stearic Acid, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, PEG-600, Trolamine,
Emollient: Petroleum Jelly, Liquid Paraffin, Glyceryl Monostearate, Stearic Acid, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone
|Glycerol||skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant||0, 0||superstar|
|Liquid Paraffin||emollient, solvent||0, 0-2|
|Glyceryl Monostearate||emollient, emulsifying||0, 1-2|
|Stearic Acid||emollient, viscosity controlling||0, 2-3|
|Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate (E216)||preservative, perfuming||0, 0|
Also-called: Glycerin | What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | Irritancy: 0
A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 yearsNot only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps lớn restore barrierEffective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up lớn 20-40%High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>
Also-called: Petroleum jelly, Vaseline;Petrolatum | What-it-does: emollient
The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. Just lượt thích mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, và it is also a mixture ofhydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length.
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The quality thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. While the occlusivity of mineral oil is in the same league as the occlusivity of plant oils, petrolatum is in a league of its own. It sits on vị trí cao nhất of the skin & hinders so-called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) lượt thích nothingelse.
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This comes in handy healing cracked lips or severely dry skin patches, though overdoing it (i.e. Reducing TEWL by more than 40%) isnot good as it can create a nice moist place for fungi and bacteria lớn grow.
As for petrolatum & safety, we can write here pretty much the exact same thing as we have written at mineral oil. There is no evidence whatsoever that cosmetic, USP grade petrolatum is carcinogenic. It also does not absorb into the skinbut sits on vị trí cao nhất of it & that in itself greatly minimises health risks. It also has a long history of safe use, as it was first used as a skincare sản phẩm more than 100 years ago, in 1872to be precise.
It is also non-comedogenic, though its pure size is very heavy & greasy so combination & oily skin typesmight want lớn avoid it anyway.
Overall, it is the gold-standard occlusive agent known today & a tub of Vaseline comes in handy in any household to lớn heal cracked lips or other severely dry skin patches.
Also-called: Mineral Oil;Paraffinum Liquidum | What-it-does: emollient, solvent | Irritancy: 0
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The famous or maybe rather infamous mineral oil. The clear oily liquid that is the "cheap by-product" of refining crude oil & the one that gets a lot of heat for its poor provenance. It is a very controversial ingredient with pros và cons và plenty of mythsaround it. So let us see them:
The pros of mineral oilTrust us, if something is used for more than 100 years in cosmeticproducts, it hasadvantages. Chemically speaking, cosmetic grade mineral oil is a complex mixture ofhighly refined saturated hydrocarbons with C15-50 chain length.It is not merely a "by-product" but rather a specifically isolated part of petroleum that is very pure và inert.
It is a great emollient & moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity.Occlusivity is one of the basic mechanisms of how moisturizers work and it means that mineral oilsits on top of the skin và hinders so-called trans-epidermal water loss, i.e water evaporating out of your skin. When compared lớn heavy-duty plant oil, extra virgin coconut oil, the two of them were equally efficient and safe as moisturizers in treating xerosis, a skin condition connected to very dry skin.
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The other thing that mineral oil is really good at is being non-irritating khổng lồ the skin. The chemical composition of plant oils is more complex with many more possible allergens or irritatingcomponents, while mineral oil is simple, pureand sensitivity to lớn it is extremely rare.If you check out the classic French pharmacy brands and their moisturizers for the most sensitive, allergy prone skin, they usually containmineral oil. This is no coincidence.
The cons of mineral oilThe pros of mineral oilcan be interpreted as cons if we look at them from another perspective. Not penetrating the skin but mostly just sitting on vị trí cao nhất of it và not containing biologically active components, lượt thích nice fatty acids and vitamins meanthat mineral oil does not "nourish" the skin in the way plant oils do. Mineral oil doesnot give the skin any extra goodness, it is simply a non-irritating moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity.
The myths around mineral oilBadmouthing mineral oil is a favorite sport of many, it is a cheap material & being connected to petrolatum makes it fairly easy to demonize.
While it is true that industrial grade mineral oil contains carcinogenic components (so-calledpolycyclic compounds), these are completely removed from cosmetic & food grade mineral oil và there is no scientific data showing that the pure, cosmetic grade version is carcinogenic.
What is more, in terms of the general health effects of mineral oils used in cosmetics, a 2017study reviewed the data on their skin penetration & concluded that "the cosmetic use of mineral oils and waxes does not present a risk lớn consumers due to lớn a lack of systemic exposure."
Another super common myth surrounding mineral oil is that it is comedogenic. A 2005 study titled"Is mineral oil comedogenic?" examined this very question và guess what happened? The study concluded that "based on the animal & human data reported, along with the AAD recommendation, it would appear reasonable to lớn conclude that mineral oil is noncomedogenic in humans.
Overall, we feel that the scaremongering around mineral oil is not justified. For dry và super-sensitive skin types it is a great option. However, if you bởi not lượt thích its origin or its heavy feeling or anything else about it, avoiding it has never been easier. Mineral oil has such a bad reputation nowadays that cosmetic companies hardly dare khổng lồ use it anymore.
A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water & oil to mix together, gives body to creams & leaves the skin feeling soft & smooth.
Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule lớn the fatty acid calledstearic acid. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fattyacidmolecules are attached khổng lồ glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to lớn soap making. It's readily biodegradable.
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It also occurs naturally in our body toàn thân and is used as a food additive. As cosmetic chemistColins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt".
Cyclomethicone is not one type of silicone, but a whole mixture of them: it's a set of specific chain length (4 khổng lồ 7) cyclic structured silicone molecules. (There seems to lớn be a confusion on the mạng internet whetherCyclomethicone andCyclopentasiloxaneare the same. They are not the same, but Cyclopentasiloxaneis part of the mixture that makes up Cyclomethicone).
All the silicones in theCyclomethicone mixture are volatile, meaning they evaporate from the skin or hair rather than stay on it. This means that Cyclomethicone has a light skin feel with none-to-minimal after-feel. It also makes the formulas easy to lớn spread & has nice emollient properties.
Probably themost common silicone of all. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule & has different molecular weight và thus different viscosity versions from water-light lớn thickliquid.
As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Also, works well khổng lồ fill in fine lines & wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it'snice). There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. It helps khổng lồ soften scars and increase their elasticity.
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As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it andsmoothes the hairlike no other thing. Depending on your hair type, it can bea bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true khổng lồ all silicones, only the non-volatile types).
What is true is that if a sản phẩm contains so-called N-nitrogenating agents (e.g.: preservatives like 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro- 1,3-Dioxane or sodium nitrate - so look out for things with nitro, nitra in the name) that together with TEA can form some not nice carcinogenic stuff (that is called nitrosamines). But with proper formulation that does not happen, TEA in itself is not a bad guy.
But let’s assume a bad combination of ingredients were used & the nitrosamines formed. :( Even in that case you are probably fine because as far as we know it cannot penetrate the skin.
But to lớn be on the safe side, if you see Triethanolamine in an INCI và also something with nitra, nitro in the name of it just skip the product, that cannot hurt.